Good cacao has one ingredient, a named origin, and close to half its weight in fat, which shows the cocoa butter is still in. All three are on the back of the pack. Words like premium or raw on the front tell you much less.
What should the ingredients say?
Cacao, or cocoa mass, and nothing else. Sugar, milk powder, flavourings and emulsifiers belong in hot chocolate, but in a drinking cacao they're doing work the bean would otherwise do.
How do I check the fat?
Look at the nutrition panel. Whole bean cacao has close to 50g of fat per 100g. Cocoa powder usually sits between 10g and 22g. A low number means the cocoa butter has been pressed out, and with it most of the body and much of the flavour. More in What is full-fat cacao?
Does origin matter?
Yes. A country is a start. A region or a farm is better. If a seller can't say where their cacao grew, it's most likely a blend. More in What is single-origin cacao?
What does alkalised mean?
Alkalised cocoa, also called Dutch-processed, has been treated to darken it and soften its acidity. It's common in baking cocoa, and it flattens the fruit in the bean. On a label it can appear as "cocoa processed with alkali", or as an acidity regulator such as potassium carbonate.
What about raw or organic?
Each tells you something narrow. Organic is a certified farming standard. Raw usually means the beans weren't roasted, though they've still been fermented and dried, and the term has no legal definition in the UK. Neither replaces the checks above.
What should good cacao be like in the cup?
It should melt cleanly and leave the drink glossy, not gritty. It should smell of chocolate and something besides, often fruit. And it should taste good without sugar, even if you'd usually add some.
Why does whole bean cacao cost more than powder?
Cocoa butter is the most valuable part of the bean. Powder makers press it out and sell it on, mostly to chocolate and cosmetics companies. Whole bean cacao keeps it in the pack, and that accounts for much of the difference.
Try it for yourself.
Single-origin Pure Cacao from the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. 11 sticks per pack, or a Month Supply of 33.